1October to March: the best time to visit
Winter is peak season in Rajasthan for good reason. Days in Jaipur are 22 to 28°C and sunny, perfect for walking up to Amber Fort or through the old city bazaars. December and January nights drop to 5 to 8°C, and colder in the desert, so pack a warm layer for the dunes. This is when desert camps in Jaisalmer are open, the lakes in Udaipur are full after the monsoon, and Ranthambore's tiger safaris run every day. Hotels and cars book up fast around Diwali, Christmas and New Year, so plan a few weeks ahead.
2April to June: hot, quiet and cheaper
From April, temperatures climb fast, and May and June regularly pass 42°C in Jaipur and 45°C in Jaisalmer and Jodhpur. Most desert camps close. If summer is your only window, it still works: hotel prices fall by a third or more, the forts are quiet, and Ranthambore is one of the best places in India to see tigers as they come out to the waterholes. Start sightseeing at sunrise, rest indoors from noon to 4 pm, and head out again for the evening. An air-conditioned car makes a big difference.
3July to September: the monsoon
The monsoon brings short, heavy showers rather than days of rain, and turns the Aravalli hills around Jaipur and Udaipur green. Udaipur is at its prettiest, with the lakes filling up and the view from the Monsoon Palace at its best. Jaipur's Teej festival in July or August fills the old city with women in green and swings in the gardens. Jaisalmer gets very little rain and stays hot and humid. Note that Ranthambore and Sariska's core safari zones close from July to September.
4Festivals worth planning around
The Jaisalmer Desert Festival in January or February has camel races, folk music and turban-tying on the Sam dunes. Holi in March is loud and colourful across the state. The Pushkar Camel Fair in October or November brings tens of thousands of camels, traders and pilgrims to the lake. Diwali lights up Jaipur's bazaars like nowhere else. Gangaur in March or April and Teej in the monsoon are the city's own festivals. Dates move with the lunar calendar, so check the year you're travelling and book early.
5How many days do you need?
Two days covers the highlights of Jaipur. Add a day trip to Agra for the Taj Mahal, or to Ajmer and Pushkar. Five days is enough for Jaipur, Pushkar and either Jodhpur or Udaipur. To see the classic Rajasthan circuit of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur without rushing, plan seven to ten days with your own car and driver, which lets you stop at places like Chittorgarh, Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh on the drives between cities.
